This culinary sanctuary left an unforgettable mark on our taste buds. My fellow gastronomes, my daughter Issa, and the bright-eyed, budding food critic, little West, were delighted. This food haven went by the name of CVI.CHE 105, led by Chef Chipoco, a seasoned player in the Peruvian culinary scene, with a respectable 12-year tenure and locations spanning from the hustle and bustle of Downtown Miami to the charming corners of South Beach-Lincoln Road and reaching into the heart of Aventura and Dadeland Malls. We visited the location closest to us, in Dadeland.
The maestro at the helm of this Peruvian ship was none other than Chef Juan Chipoco. A son of Lima who had etched his mark deep into South Florida soil, his tale is more than just about a chef making it big. It is a tapestry of unwavering dedication and remarkable resilience, a testament to the human spirit that resonated with us. With Peru as his compass, Chef Chipoco navigates the course of Miami’s culinary revolution, constantly steering towards uncharted, delectable territories.
Venturing into CVI.CHE 105 was like signing up for a deep dive into the heart of Peru, where every dish was a chapter in its rich, flavorful history. Their spin on ceviche, as fresh and invigorating as the Peruvian coastlines, was just the start of an epicurean adventure that cut a wide swath through the diverse landscape of traditional Peruvian fare.
Ceviche Ganador Mixto – Marinated raw mixed seafood in fresh Chulucanas’ lime juice, mixed with Arequipan onions, cilantro, and served with rocoto pepper cream sauce.
I loved the Ceviche Ganador Mixto. The dish gracefully danced a fine line between audacity and tradition. Raw seafood had been bathed, not merely marinated, in the crisp and sour embrace of Chulucanas’ lime juice – a special type of lime grown in the Chulucanas province of Peru. The sharpness of the juice was mellowed by the company of Arequipan onions and cilantro, each ingredient twirling in a harmonious ballet.
Arequipan onions are a specialty sweet onion grown in Peru, prized for their mild flavor and crisp, juicy texture. This ceviche reached a crescendo as it met the palate, not with a clash, but with a warm handshake, thanks to the unifying presence of the rocoto pepper cream sauce. A wink of heat, a punch of acid, a whisper of freshness. The dish was over too soon, leaving an echo of its taste long after the last bite.
Jalea Real de Pescado – Crispy pieces fried of fish with an unmatched taste, accompanied by golden yuca, tartar sauce, and topped with salsa criolla – Arequipan onions, cilantro, lime, and tomatoes.
There it was, the Jalea Real de Pescado, one of my favorite Peruvian dishes! Golden chunks of fish, prepared with an expert’s touch, winked up at us from the plate, their crispy exteriors creating an enticing spectacle. The fish had been lightly battered and then fried to perfection, resulting in pieces that were ethereal on the outside yet succulent within. Each bite released a burst of the ocean, a profound and pure flavor that genuinely illustrated the wonders of simple, well-prepared seafood.
Entangled with the fish lay strips of golden yuca, fried to a flawless crisp, offering a delightful contrast in textures. But, what added the coup de grace to the dish, was the salsa criolla. This vibrant medley of Arequipan onions, cilantro, lime, and tomatoes, draped itself over the fried fish like a fresh blanket of Peruvian essence. The lime cut through the fish’s and yuca’s richness, while the onions and cilantro offered a verdant crunch. The tartar sauce served on the side added a creamy tanginess to each bite, balancing the robustness of the dish.
Lomo Saltado with Causa Maleada – Soft pieces of steak, bright tomatoes, Peruvian yellow peppers, and Arequipan onions sautĂ©ed in a fiery wok.
The Lomo Saltado with Causa Maleada made its grand entrance. This was no ordinary offering but a masterpiece woven from the rich tapestry of Peruvian cuisine. As tender as a mother’s affection, chunks of steak melded with ripe tomatoes, vibrant as the setting sun. Peruvian yellow peppers, each with a distinctive allure, and Arequipan onions, which carried the piquant promise of their heritage, were tossed into the blistering chaos of a wok. Their unity under the searing heat was a culinary marvel, the ingredients surrendering their individual identities to contribute to a far grander narrative.
The resultant dish was a medley of flavors and textures, the simple elements combining in an alchemical transformation to create something utterly unique. Colors clashed and blended, the bright tones a feast for the eyes that matched the feast for the palate. The aroma, too, had a magnetic pull – an olfactory siren call that was impossible to ignore, hinting at the rich, layered flavors within each bite.
I almost forgot to tell you about the causa hidden underneath the steak. Causa is a classic layered potato dish that uniquely combines colorful, tasty ingredients for a beautiful presentation. The presentation was unimportant in this case, as the causa was buried under the steak. These potatoes were gently cooked and mixed with aji amarillo, a vibrant yellow pepper that gave the dish a slightly spicy, fruity taste.
Arroz Chaufa De Camarones – Peruvian Cantonese-style rice and shrimp cooked in a wok and sautĂ©ed with a brown reduction of soy, sesame oil, and oyster sauce
The Arroz Chaufa De Camarones was a delicate fusion of Peruvian and Cantonese influences, whisking you to an imaginative culinary crossroads. Tender and succulent shrimp mingled with rice that was stir-fried to the ideal texture in a well-seasoned wok. A brown reduction of soy, sesame oil, and oyster sauce was drizzled over the dish, infusing each grain with a blend of savory and umami notes. This vibrant melange of flavors was a bold assertion of the possibilities of cross-cultural cooking exploration, demonstrating the adventurous spirit of this cuisine.
When it came to service, CVI.CHE 105 was in a league of its own. Their team, bound by a shared love for good food, churned out dishes with an almost hypnotic rhythm, each plate an ode to their relentless pursuit of excellence. The warmth that emanated from their staff was not just professional – it was familial, a slice of Peru’s soul served up on a silver platter. In a city that is a melting pot of flavors, CVI.CHE 105 was a beacon for Peruvian cuisine and a standard-bearer for great hospitality, making each dining experience an event to savor.
Address: 7535 N Kendall Dr #5000, Miami, FL 33156
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